Planting
When selecting a new site for boxwood, it is important to know how large it will be at maturity. Problems of overcrowding can be avoided if the ultimate size is known and proper space allowed for future growth. Knowing and considering the mature size allows for proper placement of the shrubs when they are initially planted. Small- to medium-size boxwood can be successfully transplanted by the homeowner from one area to another. To move large boxwood, it is best to consult a professional landscape contractor.
What is the best season to move boxwood?
Planting and transplanting is best done in early fall, generally October. This allows the boxwood time to produce new roots, which allow the plant to absorb water. As long as the ground is not frozen, boxwood will grow most of its roots during the winter. An alternative time to plant or transplant boxwood is very early spring, prior to the growth of the new foliage. Late spring and summer are the most difficult time for moving boxwood. In this case, there is poor root growth and monitoring cultural conditions until fall is important.
Maintaining proper moisture levels in the plant is always a concern for the first year or so after transplanting. Antitranspirants, or antidesiccants, are often considered to retain moisture in the plant. These compounds are not recommended for use with boxwood as they reduce the plant’s ability to absorb life-providing carbon dioxide. The boxwood leaves naturally have a thick waxy cuticle that excels in retaining moisture. Boxwood with a smaller than recommended root ball size are predisposed to desiccation. In this event, physical barriers during the winter on the south and west side of the plant, to reduce the drying effects of both sun and wind, provide the best results.
How are boxwood moved?
Boxwood roots seldom grow very deep in relation to the total plant. The roots will, however, spread a great deal, so in digging the root ball, width is more critical than depth. The root ball ought to be at least as wide as the drip line. The depth of the ball is usually determined by the height of the plant. A 4 to 1 ratio provides a general guideline. For example, a 6' (1.75 m) tall boxwood should have a root ball 12' to 2' (0.45 m to 0.6 m) deep. Root prune large boxwood in the fall, one year in advance if possible. To facilitate digging and transporting, tie up the branches of medium to large plants with rope or heavy twine. Digging should not be attempted if the soil is excessively dry or wet. If the soil is too dry, water the area thoroughly several days in advance.
Before digging, mark a circle on the ground at the drip line of the foliage. The majority of the important small feeder roots are located in this zone. Using a flat edge spade with its back turned to the plant, cut straight down 9" to 12" (23 cm to 30 cm). Continue all the way around the circle. Dig a trench outside the circle. Then trim the root ball by removing surplus soil so that it is uniformly tapered. Be sensitive to the amount of roots being cut by the spade. If a large number of roots are being cut, it would be prudent to ease off cutting at that area and make the ball wider. Conversely, if no roots are evident, the ball can be dug closer to the trunk. After trimming, undercut the root ball by tapering the sides in at a 45o degree angles.
With small root balls, those under 10" to 12" (25 cm to 30 cm) in diameter, the plant can be removed from the hole using two spades inserted under the ball from opposing sides. For slightly larger root balls, 8" to 16" (20 cm to 40 cm), tip the root ball to one side and insert a burlap bag under the ball. Then lift the plant by grasping the corners of the burlap. For root balls larger than about 16" (40 cm), the root ball should be wrapped in burlap and then reinforced with rope. This will keep the root ball from falling apart.
How are boxwood planted?
At the site, dig the depth of the hole slightly shallower than the height of the root ball. This ensures that the root ball is planted on firm soil. One of the most common mistakes in transplanting is planting boxwood too deeply. Even planting boxwood where the top of the root ball is level with the existing soil line is too deep. When properly planted, the top 10% of the root ball ought to be above the existing soil level. After the hole is dug, place the root ball into it. If synthetic burlap is used, remove it from the ball. Natural burlap can remain on the ball and only needs to be loosened from around the trunk. Replace half of the soil, firm, and water well. Then, finish filling the hole with soil and water slowly at the base of the plant.
Do not thin the foliage after planting or transplanting. It is the leaves that produce sugars the plant needs for root growth. By reducing the leaves, the plant's ability to produce new roots is proportionally reduced. The more vigorous the root growth, the faster the plant becomes established.
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